Terlig

Gyuligula2: Adding short description: "Clothing" (Shortdesc helper)

---

'''Terlig''' (帖裡 or 贴里; '''tieli''' in Chinese)''',''' also known as '''bianxianao''' (辮線襖/辫线袄, coat with plaited line) or '''Yaoxianao[-zi]''' (腰線襖/腰线袄 or 腰線襖子, coat with waist line) in Chinese, or commonly referred as '''Mongol dress''' or '''plait-line robe''', is an archetypal type of [[Culture of Mongolia|Mongolian clothing]] for men.<ref name=":0">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref><ref name=":2">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref><ref name=":3">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 2, expected 1)</ref><ref name=":4">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref> The terlig was initially developed to accommodate the culture, the [[Equestrianism|equestrian]] and [[Nomad|nomadic]] lifestyle of the [[Mongols]], and to protect their bodies from the cold temperature of [[steppe]] regions.<ref name=":0" /> It was sometimes decorated with Mongolian-style ''cloud collar'' (雲肩; yunjian, also known as "cloud-shoulder") pattern which decorated around the robe's collar, chest, and shoulders area.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":2" /><ref name=":5">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref> As the terlig gained symbolic meaning with time and as it spread into different regions, its shape and design evolved.<ref name=":0" /> Hybrid forms of the terlig was developed as it came in contact with other local cultures.<ref name=":0" /> The terlig was worn in [[China]], [[Central Asia]], [[Korea]], and in the [[Mughal Empire]] in [[India]].<ref name=":0" /> It is still worn as [[Mongols|Mongol ethnic]] clothing in some regions.<ref name=":0" />

== Terminology ==
The origins of the term terlig is debatable.<ref name=":0" /> It may have come from the Turkic word ''tärlik.<ref name=":0" />''

== History ==

=== Mongol ===

==== Origins ====
So far, the terlig appears to be of Mongol origins as to date no terlig were found in [[Han Chinese]] nationalities and in other nationalities in Northern China prior to the establishment of the [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":4" /> Originally, the Mongol terlig was a type of long, knee-length coat with a front-opening coat with voluminous folds along the waistline and side vents at the side to provide ease of movement; it also has long and tight sleeves, tight-fitting bodice, a wide waist-band and the coat is fastened at the side.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":3" /> It was made with animals hides.<ref name=":0" />

==== Mongolian ethnic clothing ====
In modern times, the term terlig is still used to described the clothing of Mongolian ethnic.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Buryats]] wear a coat called tyrlyk which can refer to a coat which can come with or without folds at the waist.<ref name=":0" />

=== China ===
[[File:Liu-Kuan-Tao-Jagd.JPG|thumb|187x187px|The Emperor and the guards wearing the Mongol terlig, from the painting Hunting scene of [[Kublai Khan]].]]

==== Yuan dynasty (1271-1368 AD) ====
In the [[Yuan dynasty]], the terlig was known as Yaoxianao (腰线袄) or bianxianao (辫线袄) in Chinese literature;<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4" /> it was a popular style of coat and was a very important form of clothing.<ref name=":6">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref><ref name=":5" /> The terlig became more established and symbolized the attire of people of higher social status.<ref name=":0" /> It was worn by people of all social classes;<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6" /><ref name=":5" /> the social status markers was the fabric quality.<ref name=":0" /> The [[jisün]] clothing was itself a variation of the terlig.<ref name=":0" /><ref>Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref>

The terlig in the [[Yuan dynasty]] was especially characterized by the presence of numerous narrow and dense folds (or pleats) at waist and by the presence of "waist-thread" decoration on the waist band wherein people would use red and silk threads to fasten the coat on their waist.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":6" /><ref name=":7"> Silk Roads Programme|url=https://en.unesco.org/silkroad/silk-road-themes/mouvable-heritage-and-museums/robe-decorative-braided-waist-band-0|access-date=2021-05-05|website=en.unesco.org}}</ref> These two features were the biggest advantage of the coat which made it suitable for riding horses.<ref name=":6" /> The waist band was large and is typically 15 cm in width.<ref name=":7" /> The robe was also calf-length, had long narrow sleeves, and had a cinched waist which was created by the waist-thread; it also had a side closure which was fastened at the right side with ties.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":4" /> The collar could either be cross-collared or round-collared.<ref name=":4" /> It could be decorated with flowers and could come in various colours.<ref name=":6" /> From the early to later periods of the Yuan dynasty, the basic form of terlig remained relatively unchanged, although some variations of the ribbon (i.e. ribboned vs braided waist) most likely coexisted together.<ref name=":5" />

==== Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD) ====
Some Mongol clothing from the Yuan dynasty was continued in the [[Ming dynasty]] despite the repeated prohibition of Mongol-style clothing, especially during the reign of the [[Hongwu Emperor]].<ref name=":8">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref>

The tieli (贴里) continued to be worn in the [[Ming dynasty]] by high-ranking eunuchs.<ref>Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref>

In the [[Ming dynasty]], the [[yesa robe]], a new style of clothing, was either developed directly from the [[Yuan dynasty]] Mongol terlig or from the [[jisün]] clothing, which is itself a type of terlig.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6" />

The [[jisün]] also continued to be worn in [[Ming dynasty]] and was also known as zhisun robe.<ref name=":6" /><ref name=":8" />

Another style of clothing which was developed in the [[Ming dynasty]] and was derived and heavily influenced by the [[Yuan dynasty]] terlig is the ''pleated robe'' (褶子衣; zhezhiyi); the lower hem of the ''zhezhiyi'' had numerous dense and narrow pleats and kept more features akin to the Mongol terlig than the [[yesa robe]].<ref name=":6" />

==== Qing dynasty (1636–1912 AD) ====
In the [[Qing dynasty]], the terlig evolved into a form of ceremonial dress (朝服; chaofu), a robe with folds at the waist.<ref name=":0" />

=== Korea ===
The earliest records of the term terlig in Korea dates from the 15th century AD.<ref name=":0" /> The term terlig can be written in several ways in Korea; such as t'yŏllik (텰릭); t’yŏnlik (텬릭), ch’ŏllik (철릭), or ch’ŏnik (천익), or ch’ŏbli (帖裡, 帖裏, 貼裏) or ch’ŏnik (天益, 天翼, 千翼).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref> The term cholik (철릭) is derived from the Mongolian term terlig; the term was introduced in Korea through China along with Chinese characters but continued to maintain the Mongolian sound.<ref name=":1" />

==== Goryeo (918–1392 AD) ====
The terlig was introduced in Korea during the later period of the mid-[[Goryeo]] dynasty.<ref name=":1" /> The terlig became more and more common in Korea due to the close relationship between the Goryeo and Mongol court through political marriages, and Mongol clothing was adopted in the Korean court in the late 13th and early 14th centuries AD.<ref name=":5" /> Some artefacts of [[Goryeo]] period terligs has survived time.<ref name=":0" />

==== Joseon (1392–1897 AD) ====
In [[Joseon]], the terlig was written as ch'obli (帖裡; possibly pronounced as tieli in Middle Korean) in a book on music called [[Akhak gwebeom|Akhak gwebom]] and was possibly pronounced as tieli in middle Korean; there is an illustration of a coat with folds and a waist band in the same book.<ref name=":0" /> The term terlig was written as chobli (帖裏) in the [[Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty|Annals of the Joseon dynasty]] from 1424 AD to describe presents given from the China's [[Ming dynasty]] or to describe military uniforms.<ref name=":0" /> In [[Joseon]], the terlig developed further with the disappearance of the waistband along with the increased of sleeves width.<ref name=":0" /> After the 17th century, the bodice of the terlig became shorter than the lenght of the skirt and formed a high-waistline style.<ref name=":0" />

=== Ilkhanate (1256–1335 AD) ===
[[File:Tegüder_et_Shams_al-Dîn_Djuvaynî.jpeg|thumb|177x177px|[[Tekuder]] and [[Shams ad-Din Juvayni]]. ''[[Jami' al-tawarikh]]'', [[Rashid-al-Din Hamadani|Rashid al-Din]], painting dating from c.1430 AD.]]
The terlig appears to have been fashionable in the [[Ilkhanate]] court.<ref name=":9">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref>

The terlig worn in the Ilkhanate were slightly different from the ones in the [[China]]'s [[Yuan dynasty]] despite some similarities in terms of shapes and while some were also decorated with Central or East-Asian motifs (e.g. cloud collar designs, Central or East Asian-style dragons, phoenixes and flowers such as lotus, chrysanthemum) which were introduced in West Asia during the Mongol period.<ref name=":10">Liquid error: wrong number of arguments (given 1, expected 2)</ref><ref name=":9" />

The terlig worn in the [[Ilkhanate|Ilkhnate]] regions had a combination of both Mongol and [[Islamic culture]] characteristics, such as roundel patterns and pseudo-Kufic inscription.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":11"></ref> The main differences from the Yuan dynasty terlig is the presence of tirāz bands in the forms of strips and in the way some of the clothing were worn together.<ref name=":10" /> The Islamic influences lead to the implementation of bands (possibly reinforcement strips) along the shoulders and the arms.<ref name=":0" /> The terlig in the Ilkhanate was worn as an inner garment under a short-sleeved, outer coat.<ref name=":11" /> The waist-decoration also appears to have been less common in the Ilkhanate compared to its more common prevalence in the [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":9" /> The collars could also be found in different shapes, such standing collars; this marked another difference from the ones terligs worn in Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":9" />

=== Mughal Empire (1526–1858 AD) ===
[[File:Govardhan._Akbar_With_Lion_and_Calf_ca._1630,_Metmuseum_(cropped).jpg|left|thumb|188x188px|Emperor Akbar wearing a Jama.]]
In the [[Mughal Empire]], the terlig was called [[Jama (coat)|jama]]. The jama was initially worn by the Muslim ruling class at the Mughal court.<ref name=":0" /> The jama was developed as part of the introduction of the [[Islamic culture]] in [[India]] and was perceived as being part of the newly apparition of Islamic identity rather than Mongol culture.<ref name=":0" />

[[Akbar|Emperor Akbar]] later encouraged all of his citizens to wear the jama and created new clothing regulations in order to integrate the Muslims and local Hindus population; the direction of the coat fastening differentiated the Indus and the Muslims.<ref name=":0" /> The Indus fastened their jama to the left side while the Muslims fastened it to the right side similarly to the Mongols.<ref name=":0" />

The Jama was a clothing which showed hybridity with local culture; it was a long coat with folds around the waistline without the waistband; it had very long tight sleeves and the waistline was higher than the original Mongol terlig.<ref name=":0" />

== See also ==

* [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty]]
* [[Jisün]]
* [[Yesa robe]]
* [[Jama (coat)|Jama]]
* [[Hanfu]]

== References ==


[[Category:Yuan dynasty| ]]
[[Category:Ming dynasty| ]]
[[Category:Dynasties in Chinese history]]
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]
[[Category:Chinese clothing]]
[[Category:Han Chinese|Clothing]]
[[Category:Mongolian fashion]]
[[Category:Mongolian culture]]

from Wikipedia - New pages [en] https://ift.tt/3nMsq13
via IFTTT